Dallas’ superlative salmon bagels and where to find them


Sometimes you want a salmon bagel. The perfect rich and buttery fish, the perfect smoke or sensual cure, the perfect marriage of capers and cream cheese. That was me a few weeks ago.

I happily searched for piles of ripe tomatoes. I judged the malt and the chewing, the layering and the weight. And I can say that we are in a very good place. A herd made up mostly of newcomers says there are smoked salmon of ways to do it. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.) These sandwiches range between $ 9 and $ 12. Here is a look at what I consider the best of the new school.

Police station

A smoked salmon bagel reconnaissance mission to the Modern Art Tile Commissary downtown will result in a chubby bagel wrapped in a sheet of parchment and deposited in a paper bag with a voucher snap. It’s a layered affair with tomato, arugula, homemade dill and caper schmear – sandwiched between chewy, New York-style bagel halves – it’s the best as a morning ritual with a cortado.

Tribal coffee all day

Here is the minimalist artwork! This specimen wins in my book for image quality, if what you’re looking for are the clean, clean lines of a Nordic aesthetic. It is, shamelessly, an open-faced toast that seems to just have to capture the pale light of the first morning and perhaps be placed on a marble counter to capture that morning glow. Two slices of toasted local bread support the still life: beautiful folds of silky Norwegian salmon with shards of pickled onions, blushing pale to match hues of salmon, and a few capers sprinkled with a luxurious schmear of plain cream cheese. . It’s wonderfully simple, but a satisfying gestalt. (The salmon is also particularly smooth and silky.) I have to say I order it with a side of crumbled mushroom-nut fake “sausage”, because it’s delicious and because I can. And because it’s Tribal, they’ll pamper your salmon in a grain-free wrap with avocado, greens, cucumber, tomato, and herbed tahini sauce, as an alternative.

Lenore’s Handmade Bagels

Jessica and Seth Brammer have decided to “keep things simple and regular,” Seth will tell you. Kind of. The DIY approach applies to both their products and how they are incubated: they started out as an artisan business based on ordering hand-crafted bagels online from all of the ancestral locally ground flour. with a night ferment. (They now work in a commercial kitchen.) Also, take the shmears in an assortment like fresh strawberries, or green onions and hard-boiled eggs, or roasted and spicy tomatoes and capers. None of this is ordinary, although the pattern is simple: order bagels, order spreads, assemble yourself.

Lenore’s Honey Pepper Smoked Salmon is to die for.

Handmade Bagels from Lenore / Seth Brammer

Two things await salmon lovers. There’s honey and pepper smoked salmon and homemade candied jalapeño cream cheese with nuggets of each other – yes, smoky, sweet, with flavors as big as Texas. Or there’s the cream cheese with finely chopped gravlax (unsmoked salt, sugar, salted salmon with dill) whipped with capers, plus lemon and dill in freckles.

They bring in and smear whole salmon, so you can also buy Scottish salmon gravlax or pepper and honey smoked salmon. For the latter, Seth smokes honey first; the whole salmon is salted with pepper as the only spice. Get it in four-ounce vacuum packs and fold it yourself onto bagels. It blew him away, Seth says, that gravlax was the most popular. Choose for yourself. Or grab a sandwich kit with tomatoes, onions and pickles to pair with a rocky bagel. Look for more regular residence pop-ups in the near future.

Shug bagels

Sometimes you want something massive. Something like the sheer exuberance of creating Pastrami Cured Salmon at Shug. The new University Park grocery store is co-managed by SMU alumnus Justin Shugrue, in the shadow of whose alma mater the store is located. He and his co-owners are responsible for the juggernaut for which you have three options: classic lox, lemon-beet-dried gravlax, and pastrami brine.

Try this mix-and-match: I order mine on a flagel (a flattened bagel) for a vehicle stuffed and brimming with pretty innocent green onion cream cheese and pastrami spiced salmon on a sunflower seed studded disc. whose toasted and crispy edges are key. They add crunch and dark color to a light exterior that already has a multitude of textures and aromas.

Capers overflow with a tower of grated lettuce and ripe tomatoes. For the greatest pleasure, it’s a winner. There is something to be said for the excess. That bagel will set you back $ 15, but that’s a case for hedonism and pure maximalist bliss.

The Local Comfort Market Café

It’s no surprise that the gravlax of this Far North Dallas kosher breakfast is perfect. Co-owner Stacey Clark is originally from Brooklyn – like, it must be said, bagel dough – and her business partner Jordona Kohn has worked in restaurants in Israel and New York. “We’re getting our Brooklyn bagel dough because there’s no other way,” Kohn says, implying that fact is obvious. “We shape it, boil it and cook it. We boil it properly, ”she emphasizes, for this nice chewing and pulling. The rings come in sesame seeds or whole or poppy seeds so thick it’s like midnight.

Regulars know the East Coaster – or “the classic Jew,” Kohn jokes – is one of those three-day bagels spread with schmear, lettuce, tomato, onions, capers and homemade gravlax. Yes, the Market AM sandwich is good too, with its pesto, sweet onion marmalade, scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese, sriracha mayonnaise and homemade potatoes sandwiched between malted circles. I won’t quibble. But only to nibble between this iconic classic. You can read more about the remarkable challah and Kohn’s dips here.

Table and fountain table

At Fount Board and Table, the salmon, from west coast small-batch supplier Cambridge House, hangs from the rope and smoked over a mix of fallen wood from the nearby Santa Ynez Valley and worn out chardonnay barrels from vineyards local. (If this sounds like an idyll, consider that the sylphs might be responsible for dusting the salmon stack with fairy dill pollen.) I smear it with labneh rather than cream cheese for the extra pizzazz. Or if you want to get off the ship completely, so to speak, they serve a bagel topped with salmon roe. Lenore’s supplies the very “extra” bagels and accessories from local luxury goods supplier Regalis.



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