Farmhouse Brings Cred With Heart Pizza to Kailua
Yeses, Kailua has California Pizza Kitchen and Round Table Pizza as well as a Domino’s, if you fancy delivery. There are even vegan pizza nights at the Mother Bake Shop and pricey wood-fired pop-ups at weekly farmers’ markets and the local tap house. But compared to Honolulu this is a desert for quality pizza that is easily accessible in my opinion. So when it comes to tasty, well-executed pies, you can get them at least three days a week for a price that might make it a habit, Farmhouse Pizza at Grace at Growlers on Hekili Street is exactly the dough that i ‘have been. longing for.
The low-key craft beer tasting room, which also houses Montreal-style Empty Elle bagels on certain days, has become a hub for hungry foodies. The atmosphere is charming and cool: a recycled wood door is our table, with patinated metal chairs to accompany this lively tasting. In the heat of a recent Wednesday afternoon, we brew libations: a Stonewall & Stewbum beer for Frolic Associate Editor Thomas Obungen and a Paradise Ciders pitaya song for me. The pizzas are oblong in shape, which gives us options of square or triangular slices, depending on how much golden, sparkling crust we want. Note: The terrific crust (the result of obsessive recipe development) is for me precisely what makes these pizzas, pizzas – not flatbreads or flatbread pizzas. The Fennie ($ 14), with crumbled sausage and fennel, is the newest and the one we’re most excited about. Although a bit fatter, the flavors of Italian sausage, bechamel, and mild, caramelized fennel are rich and well-seasoned, with fresh fennel leaves giving a bright and balanced finish.
SEE ALSO: Drink Good Beers for Good Causes at Grace in Growlers
The Sweet Heat ($ 11.50) is a combo of pepperoni and honey. It pairs a rich tomato sauce that takes four days to prepare with pepperoni, mozzarella, goat cheese, fresh basil and a drizzle of homemade chipotle honey. The spice lover might ask for crushed red chili, as chipotle is sweet.
We also try the 4 Way ($ 12.50), a cheese pizza finished with beautiful edible flower petals. It’s simple, even delicate: pieces of fresh thyme add dimension to the mixture of alfredo sauce, ricotta with herbs, mozzarella and parmesan, the resulting creaminess juxtaposed nicely with the crunchy crust. The Spicy Spinach ($ 12.50) looks like a spinach and artichoke and jalapeño pizza, topped with fried spinach and fresh jalapenos on the side. The base is a bit dry, but the oil from the crispy fried spinach helps and the result is a texture (pizza) feast. The Chimi ($ 13) has grilled pork, fried onions, and a bright green chimichurri sauce. Visually, this is the most fun, and who doesn’t love fried onions? The flavor of the meat could be more concentrated, but with flavors ranging from meat to freshness and herbaceous, this is a roller coaster of a pie.
A homemade ranch with fresh, creamy dill is great for dipping your pizza. Pro tip: Order extra for your leftovers. Farm partner Kanoe Kuwabara tells me that when she photographed the ranch, it was like this one. Like the middle eight year old growing up on Kaua’i, cooking was part of his life from an early age. She came to O’ahu in 2012 to study social work, but instead found herself running food businesses. That’s how she met Kyle Ranochal from the Philadelphia area (enter pizza credit), who developed the recipe for their 24-hour fermented dough. Together, they launched Pizzaloha, a donation-based pop-up whose proceeds benefited local nonprofits or provided teachers with school supplies. Farmhouse Pizza is part of their dream of having a restaurant on a farm where they can cook for the community and the family. In the meantime, they’re bringing back donation-based pizza nights starting September 26th. This will benefit the families of the emergency shelter in Waimānalo. Keep an eye on their Instagram for updates.
Open Wednesdays 4 p.m. to 9 p.m., Saturdays 2 p.m. to 9 p.m., Sundays 12 p.m. to 6 p.m., 143 Hekili St., @ farmhousepizza.hi